In fact, my original setup took almost 600 lbs of weight off the steer axle and I didn't really notice it. Rob Calbar I have not noticed any problem. Just curious how you are finding your setup with less weight on the front axle when hooked up. I have found that this gives me the best handling. I have always fine tuned my WDH to return all of the unloaded weight back to the front axle per instructions from Reese who made my Straightline hitch system. RJAPCOK How does you setup handle? Do you notice that the steering when towing feels a bit light? The only reason that I ask is that loaded your front axle losses 300 lbs.
After a lot of consideration I went with the 1400/14000 as I felt it most closely matched my set up. When I contacted Equal-I-Zer for their recommendation, they recommended I go with the 1600/16000. So if you buy a hitch that is rated only for the weight of the trailer tongue, you will end up with a hitch that is very likely underrated and overloaded.
EQUALIZER E4 HITCH TV
But the important thing out of all this is to understand that the load on the hitch is not just the load from the trailer tongue, but the combined weight of the trailer tongue and the weight of the TV that is being borne by the spring bars and hitch. The bottom line is, weight comes off of the drive axle, and is added to the steer and trailer axles. So some of your TV load is added to the downward force on the trailer ball, and that is opposed by an equal force upward which is distributed across all of the axles as a downward force. That is, some of the load goes to the tongue, and some goes to the axles. This added weight to the trailer frame is distributed just as if you had placed the equivalent load on the trailer frame with the trailer detached. spring bars) are placed onto and supported by the trailer frame. Then the handles of the wheelbarrow, (i.e. any weight added to the TV in the form of cargo and passengers, is also added to the "load in the wheelbarrow". The trailer tongue weight is placed onto the TV and becomes more "load in the wheelbarrow". Installing a WD hitch is the equivalent of turning your TV into a wheelbarrow where the steer axle is the front wheel, the drive axle is the load in the wheelbarrow and the spring bars are the handles. Let me say one thing about WD hitches and why you should go with a higher rated hitch. Everything else pretty much in ready to camp configuration. Also, this weight was with empty fresh and waste water tanks and nothing in the Fridge or pantry. I DID NOT weigh without the WDH so can't tell you what that number was. With Trailer attached (and WDH installed): Also, has anyone got any actual hitch weight data for a loaded 2970rl?I use an Equal-I-Zer 1400/14000 for my 2970RL Here are my weights from the last time I weighed on the CAT scale. Spring-bar dimensions: 36" long x 1-1/2" wide.Need advise on what equalizer e4 hitch size 10, 12, or 14k for towing Imagine 2970 rl with F150.Maximum drop: 3" from top of the hitch receiver opening.Maximum rise: 7" from top of the hitch receiver opening.No drilling or tapping makes installation quick and easy.Sway-control bracket positioning: 27" - 32" back from the center of the coupler.Fits 2" x 2" trailer hitch receiver rated for the tongue & towing weights for your application.Maximum gross towing weight: 12,000 lbs.Includes built-in sway control, hitch head, standard shank (3" drop / 7" rise x 12"), spring arms, snap-up lever, installation hardware, and owners manual.Kit includes everything you need except the hitch ball and tools.
The 4-Point Sway Control provides superior sway control performance, limited side to side movement on the trailer. The Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch offers a unique two-in-one design that combines weight distribution with sway control in one easy to use unit.
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